Kohl and Pinkel in Bremen
How the North’s Most Beloved Winter Tradition Works
What Exactly Is a Kohlfahrt?
Anyone strolling through Bremen between November and March will inevitably come across them: groups in the best of moods, with colourful ribbons round their necks, a Bollerwagen (handcart) in tow and an air of anticipation you can sense from afar. This isn’t a demonstration or a carnival parade – this is a Kohlfahrt, and it’s as much a part of Bremen as the Town Musicians.
The principle is as simple as it is brilliant: a group – colleagues, the sports club, the circle of friends – sets off together through the city or out into the countryside. Along the way there’s playing, laughing and, when needed, a warming sip from the Bollerwagen to toast the occasion. The destination: a laid table with steaming kale, hearty Pinkel sausage and everything that goes with it. And at the end, a Kale King and Queen are crowned, who will have the honour of organising the whole affair the following year.
Although the Kohlfahrt is regarded as quintessentially Bremen, its origins lie in the Oldenburger Land. The Oldenburger Turnerbund (Oldenburg gymnastics association) set off on a winter exercise outing in 1871 – and stopped in Wiefelstede for kale. It tasted so good that it became an annual tradition. Bremen took it on, perfected it and added one decisive ingredient: the Weser.
Braunkohl, Pinkel and Hochzeitssuppe – What’s on the Table?
Real Bremen locals don’t say Grünkohl (green kale). They say Braunkohl – brown kale – because the long cooking with lard and bacon turns the kale a deep brown. This isn’t a flaw but a mark of quality, and reason enough for a legendary Bremen anecdote: an out-of-town guest is said to have once sued an innkeeper for serving him supposedly reheated food. The innkeeper won – it was simply Braunkohl, not leftovers.
The line-up on the plate is clearly defined: Braunkohl with Pinkel (a smoked groats sausage of oat groats, bacon and onions), accompanied by Kasseler (cured smoked pork), Kochwurst (boiled sausage), pork belly and boiled potatoes. Beforehand comes Hochzeitssuppe („wedding soup“) with chicken, egg custard garnish and vegetables – a Bremen tradition that has nothing to do with weddings: the term simply means „hoch“ in the sense of festive. The meal ends with Rote Grütze (red berry compote) and vanilla sauce.
And what about those who don’t eat meat? No problem – vegan kale with smoked tofu and vegan bratwurst has long since established itself as an alternative. The tradition lives on togetherness, after all, not on the type of sausage.
The Rules of the Game: Bollerwagen, Challenges and the Royal Crowning
A Kohlfahrt without games is like Bremen without the Weser: imaginable, but pointless. During the walk, participants collect points in sometimes absurdly creative challenges – from welly-tossing to log-disc rolling to tea-bag throwing. Whoever has the most points at the end is crowned Kohlkönig or Kohlkönigin (Kale King or Kale Queen). In some circles this is done with a pig’s lower jaw, with the names engraved into the bone – authentic and definitely no mass-produced trinket.
The crowning is honour and burden in equal measure: the royal couple organise the next Kohlfahrt the following year. Route, games, restaurant – everything lies in their hands. Some take this responsibility as seriously as a state office. Rightly so.
And the Bollerwagen? It’s the heart of every Kohltour. Inside it travel provisions, thermos flasks and the odd cold drink. Important: at the destination, it has to go somewhere. If you let your Kohlfahrt wind down on board our ship or at Café Sand, you can leave the Bollerwagen with us (one night, and only at Café Sand) – because after a successful party, no one wants to drag it back through Bremen at night.
By the Weser or on the Weser – Experiencing Kohl and Pinkel in Bremen
Most Kohlfahrten end at an inn. But Bremen offers a possibility you won’t find anywhere else: kale and Pinkel on the water.
- Kale party on board: Your group arrives at the Martinianleger after the walk, is welcomed with a glass of schnapps – and then the ship casts off. While the wintry Weser glides past, the Braunkohl is already steaming on the buffet. Hochzeitssuppe, Pinkel, Kasseler, the full programme. And once everyone is well-fed, the DJ makes sure the party really gets going. If you book all-inclusive, drinks are also covered. For guests from Bremen-Nord, the ship also docks in Vegesack – so the Kohltour can be combined with a Weser cruise without having to plan the way home.
- Kale party at Café Sand: A short ferry ride takes you across the Weser to Café Sand on the Weser beach. Here the meal is served at the table, the atmosphere is a little more intimate – but no less festive. After dinner, the dance floor is yours. A DJ keeps the mood going.
- Kohlschmaus on Sunday lunchtime: For those who want to enjoy the kale without the party, there’s the Kohlschmaus on Sunday lunchtime: three hours on the Weser, the full menu, a welcome schnapps – and afterwards a relaxed Sunday rather than a long night.
Kale Season in Bremen: From November to March
The kale season traditionally begins with the first frost and ends in March. During this time, Bremen’s Friday and Saturday evenings are firmly in the hands of Kohlfahrer (kale tourers). Clubs and company groups in particular should book early – the most popular dates are usually snapped up quickly. And for guests experiencing a Kohlfahrt for the first time in Bremen: welcome to one of Northern Germany’s warmest winter traditions. It will be loud, it will be hearty, and it’s guaranteed to be unforgettable.
